On the Road… The Riads of Marrakesh

So we hit the road last week. Three days on the streets of the medina of Marrakesh, visiting the riads and learning their stories. The train ride down their was uneventful, but as we left the train station the games began. “Do you need a taxi?” a voice called out in English. “Wesh kt-stamel l-kontur?” (Do you use the meter?) my friend replied. “H-shuma a-lik!” (Shame on you!) the taxi driver responded. Even though its the law for taxi drivers to use the counter, in Marrakesh, another system seemed to be at work. Eventually we walked far enough to find two taxis that would use the meter and we were off to our riads.

In the three days we visited about 30 of the riads of Marrakesh. Here are four of the most memorable.

1- Riad Ida ou Balou (www.riad-ida-oubalou.com): We were some of the first guests to stay in this inexpensive riad (about 50 Euros for a double room). The decor inside was simple, clean and traditional. The three things that made this riad standout were the service, the terrace and the orange juice. When we arrived we were greeted by Rachid and Mohammed along with Moroccan mint tea and an assortment of sweet cookies. As soon as we entered, we became the honored guests. For the next two hours the men sat and talked with us, refilling our tea glasses again and again as they told us the story of their riad. The truly exemplified the Moroccan saying “Dar-na pel dar-kum” (Our house is your house). I woke up early the next morning and spent time reading on the terrace. The cool Marrakesh morning wrapped around me, as the still quiet city slept all around me. The comfortable wicker chairs, the diverse plantlife, and the beautiful canopied breakfast area made me wish I could ascend to this terrace every morning. Rashid served us breakfast at our requested time- a layout of malawi, baghrir, assorted pastries, teas and coffee, along with the highlight- the orange juice. I have eaten a lot of oranges in my day and drank a lot of “fresh squeezed orange juice” but the juice at Riad Ida ou Ballou is honestly the best I have ever had. After the terrace morning and the orange juice, I left feeling like I could conquer the world. Great riad!

2- Riad Nora (www.riad-nora.com)- Beautiful riad! Talk about traditional. Out of all the riads we visited I felt like this one most made you feel like you were stepping back into time. A lot of riads in Marrakesh, while traditionally decorated in style are in fact newly renovated and you get the feeling the furniture and decor were around the time of the renovation. Riad Nora feels old and spectacular. The bathrooms were incredible. Rather than converting some tiny little space into a small shower and toilet, these bathrooms are etched into the stone and unfold before you. Both my colleague and I commented on how much our wives would enjoy them. The pics on the website don’t do it justice. And the prices they were asking (70 Euros in mid season) were great for the quality of room you get.

3- Riad Isis (www.riad-isis.com). Its a spa and riad combined. The bottom floor was a spa and guests could stay on the top floor. Tranquil, soothing, decorated in a blend of traditional and modern decor, this riad felt like an oasis in the middle of the Marrakesh sun. The atmosphere of the whole place spelled class.

4- Dar Vedra (www.dar-vedra.com/). This was probably my favorite riad for its style. The place is very tranquil and inviting, but I think it is the attention to detail regarding the style that makes this riad stand out. Each room I visited felt like it had been put together and decorated by a professional, rather than the hodge-podge assortment style decor many riads offer. Dar Vedra seems like they have put a high premium on attention to detail and you definetely feel that in the style of the riad.